There is a worrying new era of eyebrow ‘colour corrections’ flooding our socials, with red-orange coloured pigment modifiers being used to magically transform heavy grey eyebrows back to brown.
So what’s the problem?
A lot of these cases are better candidates for removal rather than correction. Correcting a problem by adding more ink to an already-unfortunate situation creates congestion of ink in the skin. Much like filing up a cup of water, the skin can only hold so much ink before it can simply hold no-more.
What’s worse is…
Packing more ink into congested skin can cause it to get stuck there as the body is unable to metabolise and remove it.
It gets even worse…
A lot of the time these cases need shape correction as well. This isn’t always because the previous artist has done a dodgy job, but eyebrow fashion changes progressively, which is why we should endeavour to use pigments and techniques that will gently fade out rather than cement in to the skin forever and ever.
Let’s think back to the 1970’s thin high arch, the 80’s Boy George tadpole brows, and 90’s pencil thin look. At the mere thought of them we cover our brows and scream ‘never again’!
But here I sit, getting the heebie jeebies about what repercussions lay ahead for everyone out there tattooing beautiful, thick, Kylie Jenner eyebrows using organic inks such as Permablend (which is Perma-nent).
Whilst KJ can currently do-no wrong, her aesthetic is over-done glam, a look she can wash off at the end of a long day of being fabulous and wealthy.
At our Sydney based cosmetic tattoo studios (My Rejuvenate), our ethos is to create ‘the best tattoo you’ve never seen’ and keeping the results very ‘you but better’. We stand by this in respect that a cosmetic tattoo should suit your natural face with no other make-up.
For our clients who are seeking a more brow-game strong look, we stick to our ethos and create a natural looking result that enhances their natural beauty, AND, we sell them a brow product to go with it. Product can be layered on to achieve that super intense brow look they love, and washed off at the end of a day.
See what we did there?
Now is the time to send off the residual fashion of our 2010’s, and bring in the era of Hailey Bieber brows! Fluffy, yet tamed, natural, and so damn pleasing to look at.
No offence KJ.
In the world of cosmetic tattooing, it’s the pixelated nano feathering, and hyperrealistic feathered eyebrows are so hot right now. And, it will be impossible to acheive this look for our clients if they have heavy, dark grey-come-brown, permanently stuck on brows to contend with.
But this is not a ‘hell no’ to all corrections…..
This is a plea to make sure you choose your corrective work wisely.
Some positive scenarios of colour correction, are circumstances where the brows have significantly faded but have an unfortunate discolouration to them. Quite often these may be a soft blurry grey needing to be warmed up with an orange or red modifier then shaded over with the target colour.
In some cases, especially old microblading that has turned bright pink or red, they will need to be corrected with an ash based or green based pigment. Violet brows require yellow modifiers and blue brows need red.
The best way to decide on a corrective colour, is to use a complementary colour chart to identify the corrector. You can Google find one of these charts or purchase one from a cosmetic tattoo supplier.
There are rare circumstances where I will endeavour to correct brows that should by rights be removed first. These are usually cases where the client is a set-in-their-ways elderly individual that will absolutely not consider the option of removal.
If I consult a young person needing correction, I feel strongly that they have a whole life of good brows ahead of them and I flat-out refuse to correct unless they remove or at least lighten first.
The methods of cosmetic tattooing that we teach at our Academy of Future Aestheticà do not require removal or correction. We use pigment formulations that are long lasting but not permanent. The contributing factors to a set of eyebrow’s tattoo longevity are; application techniques, pigment blend, dilution, and the depth that pigment is deposited.
If you are a beginner artist, I do not recommend attempting any colour or shape correction whatsoever. Refer where necessary and ask the experienced artist you have kindly referred your client to for advice on how they proceeded.
Correctional work is something that should only be tackled by an artist who is producing impeccable work and has an epic portfolio of healed, flawless results.
Stay tuned for my next blog on cosmetic tattoo removal methods.
Head Educator & Artist, Future Aestheticà | Director, My Rejuvenate